Guide to the most expected debuts of the September/October 2025 fashion season

The September/October 2025 fashion season is shaping up to be a historic one.With a game of musical chairs shaking up the creative leadership of major maisons, what we’ll see on the runways goes far beyond collections — it’s about repositioning, legacy, and new narratives. Below, I’ve rounded up the most expected debuts that are reshaping the fashion calendar and redefining the scene in Paris, Milan, and beyond.

Jonathan Anderson debuts at Dior womenswear

After solidifying his vision at Loewe and his eponymous label, Jonathan Anderson steps into one of the most iconic roles in fashion: the creative direction of Dior’s womenswear. Known for his ability to blend innovation with artisanal heritage, his debut promises a bold reinterpretation of the maison’s classic femininity. All eyes are on how he’ll rework the legacy of Christian Dior through his avant-garde lens.

Matthieu Blazy takes the helm at Chanel

Former Bottega Veneta creative and critical darling Matthieu Blazy is now at the helm of Chanel. Expectations couldn’t be higher: how will he handle the maison’s near-sacred codes — the tweed, the pearls, the black and white — while infusing his subtle modernity and flawless tailoring? This is set to be one of the most anticipated shows of the Paris season.

Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga

The comeback of Balenciaga! After departing Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli takes over Balenciaga in a surprising move. Known for his visual poetry and modern romanticism, he steps into direct contrast with Demna’s recent legacy. The question on everyone’s mind: what will Balenciaga look like under Piccioli? More couture, less street? A new chapter begins.

Demna moves to Gucci

Speaking of Demna — the designer who redefined Balenciaga’s aesthetic in recent years — he now takes the reins at Gucci. The Italian house, which has been striving to reclaim its relevance and boldness, finds in Demna a provocative new force. Expect a rawer, more ironic Gucci, marked by his signature sharp take on pop culture and consumerism. RIP Gucci?

Dario Vitale debuts at Versace

A lesser-known name to the general public, but already well-regarded behind the scenes of Italian fashion, Dario Vitale makes his debut as Versace’s new creative director. Young, sharp, and with a refreshed take on sensuality, he’s expected to bring new energy to the brand while honoring its maximalist DNA. The anticipation is for a more refined Versace — still bold and provocative, but with a new level of polish.

Before joining Versace, Dario had a long and solid tenure at Miu Miu, where he served as design director for ready-to-wear and image director. Under his leadership, Miu Miu experienced a remarkable rise. In 2024, the brand saw a 93% increase in sales, cementing its place as one of the season’s most influential names.

Personal note: Dario is a fellow Istituto Marangoni alum — my fashion school too — which makes this debut all the more exciting to watch!

Louise Trotter debuts at Bottega Veneta

British designer Louise Trotter — formerly of Lacoste and known for her intelligent minimalism — steps in to succeed Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta. Expectations point to a cleaner, yet sophisticated aesthetic, with a focus on tailoring, texture, and functionality — perfectly aligned with the quiet luxury that defines fashion’s new era of consumption.

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez (Proenza Schouler) at Loewe

In another unexpected move, the duo behind Proenza Schouler takes over the creative direction of Loewe. Following Anderson’s departure, the Spanish house enters a new chapter, with the New York–based designers bringing their cool, urban vision into dialogue with Loewe’s artisanal heritage. A fusion of hemispheres — both geographic and creative.

Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier

One of the most exciting names in experimental fashion, Dutch designer Duran Lantink takes the reins at Jean Paul Gaultier. Known for his sustainable approach, reconstruction techniques, and upcycling, he brings fresh energy and innovation to a house that has always challenged convention. His debut is expected to be both a visual — and political — manifesto.

What does this season represent?

With so many changes happening at traditional fashion houses, the September/October 2025 season goes beyond clothes — it marks a generational, aesthetic, and strategic turning point in the fashion industry. The clash between past and future, tradition and subversion, promises to create one of the most exciting moments in recent years.

Honestly, among all these debuts, the one I’m most eager to see is Pierpaolo Piccioli’s at Balenciaga. I have a feeling he might — finally — revive the true essence of the maison, that architectural and emotional elegance that has been somewhat overshadowed lately. In my opinion, this identity almost disappeared under Demna’s leadership, and seeing Pierpaolo reclaim this legacy with his sensitivity could be the season’s biggest event.

I can’t wait to see how it all unfolds on the runways. Get ready for a season that’s bound to make history!

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Xoxo, Duda